The Sacai women’s pre-collection is traditionally showcased alongside the men’s runway, creating a mirrored relationship between the two. In the latest Soul II Soul–influenced presentation, the focus was predominantly on menswear, with only a few women’s pieces included. Despite this, the connections between both collections were clear and could be easily visualized in daily wear. Elements such as pants and extended shorts with oversized pouch pockets, military-style button-and-loop closures, striped knit garments transformed into skirts and jackets, and leather outerwear had their equivalents. The long and loosely knotted scarf-tie hybrids were particularly effective for women.
The pieces projected an inherent confidence, partly due to the fact that the innovative design elements complemented rather than disrupted the overall silhouette. Certain pieces had a distinctly feminine touch, such as the tweed jacket paired with a miniskirt and the concluding all-white outfit featuring sheer panels on a relaxed T-shirt and wide-leg trousers.
Women will be thrilled to see that the Birkenstocks, which premiered on the men’s runway, were also incorporated throughout this collection. These shoes highlighted the relaxed, iterative approach to the wardrobe, focusing on evolution rather than complete reinvention.
“Of course, it’s not about just being wearable or commercial,” Abe remarked following the show. “It needs to be challenging in a Sacai way.” The objective was clearly achieved.
