Yves Saint Laurent’s Legacy: Celebrating 60 Years of the Iconic Smoking Suit

This year marks the 60th anniversary of Yves Saint Laurent’s groundbreaking creation, the Smoking suit. In modern terms, the Smoking suit refers to a black tuxedo suit tailored for women. However, back in 1966, it symbolized much more—it was a symbol of social revolution, empowering women in their quest for equality with men.

Since its inception, numerous designers have experimented with tuxedos, but it is Anthony Vaccarello who continues to pay homage to the iconic Smoking suit as the rightful spiritual home of Yves Saint Laurent. In his latest fall collection, Vaccarello showcased a series of dark trouser suits, starting with eight looks at the beginning of the show and culminating in a total of 14 by the end.

Known for his precision and attention to detail, Vaccarello drew inspiration from the sloping shoulder line of his recent men’s tailoring for women’s suits, incorporating fluidity and a lack of lining for a contemporary touch. The models’ hair, styled with a side part, gel, and bun, along with Pat McGrath’s signature smoky eyeshadow and glossy dark red lips, perfectly captured the essence of Saint Laurent’s iconic makeup from the 1970s and ’80s.

While the Smoking suit remained a focal point of the collection, Vaccarello also introduced a contrasting element with a series of silicone-covered lingerie lace body-dresses and high-shine rubber raincoats. This juxtaposition of hardcore chic and fetish-y decadence served as a nod to the revival of sensuality and a celebration of diverse body types in the fashion industry.

Similar to Demna’s Gucci collection in Milan, Vaccarello’s designs boldly proclaim the resurgence of sex appeal in fashion, challenging conventional beauty standards and embracing individuality. As we commemorate 60 years of the Smoking suit, Yves Saint Laurent’s legacy continues to inspire designers to push boundaries and redefine the concept of power dressing for women.