Unvain’s latest runway show at Berlin Fashion Week signifies a pivotal transformation for the brand. Previously, the Berlin-based label showcased large, sculptural designs that were almost monumental. In contrast, the new collection, named “Skins,” embraces more genuine, softer silhouettes, prioritizing character over spectacle.
This season, the design process began with fictional personas, each encapsulated in a single sentence within a booklet distributed to attendees before the show. Phrases like “A thousand dreams softly burn inside him,” “Rich parents, poor morals,” and “She is quiet, but her presence is loud” informed every aspect of the presentation—from clothing to styling to casting. “All our decisions were guided by these characters,” Robert Friedrichs noted backstage, emphasizing that the team always understood the characters’ identities, leaving no room for doubt.
This methodology infused the collection with a unique vibrancy. Models appeared as authentic individuals, some engrossed in their phones, others posing casually on the street, or gently petting a fluffy handbag as if it were a pet. Some gazed at the audience with a distinct “can’t sit with us” attitude, while others seemed like they had just come from a nightclub or were on a casual coffee run, nursing a hangover. Instead of a typical fashion display, it felt like witnessing people truly living in the clothes.
The collection itself mirrored this shift to a more lived-in realism, moving away from exaggerated forms to present a more approachable take on everyday wear. Key pieces included a semi-transparent outfit, a silver-coated military parka, and jeans faded by the sun, creating a youthful, sexy, and raw vibe. “We’ve gotten suddenly very young with this collection,” Friedrichs observed. The lineup featured low-rise pants, deep-V-neck polo shirts, worn-out T-shirts, and a barely-there dress adorned with just enough black feathers for modesty.
Garments featured raw, unfinished edges, with minimal color use, and some outfits looked nearly incomplete—with straps slipping off shoulders or tops missing entirely. Many models donned their own jewelry, like cross necklaces, grills, and personal keepsakes, blurring the line between performance and personal identity. The use of fur in the collection followed this philosophy as well; rather than creating new items, Unvain partnered with a resale platform to repurpose vintage clothing into one-of-a-kind designs.
Ultimately, this felt more like a thoughtfully curated wardrobe than a seasonal collection, filled with individuals you might encounter in everyday life. It captured something challenging to emulate: a pulsating sense of reality.
