Celebrating a century since the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts launched the Art Deco movement in Paris, Van Cleef & Arpels has unveiled a captivating exhibition. This showcase, located at the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum, features an array of exquisite pieces created during the peak of the Art Deco era from the mid-1920s to the 1930s. Notably, the museum itself was established as a residence for Prince Asaka and boasts remarkable Art Deco interiors, which were inspired by the prince’s visit to the 1925 exhibition in Paris. He and his wife were so enamored by the style that they engaged Henri Rapin, the same designer responsible for the Paris exhibition’s interiors.
The exhibition begins by highlighting the stark contrasts between two pivotal design movements: Art Deco and Art Nouveau. As Alexandrine Maviel-Sonet, Van Cleef & Arpels’ director of patrimony and exhibitions, explains, “Art Nouveau was characterized by organic, rounded shapes while Art Deco broke away from tradition. It embraced straight lines and geometric forms, utilizing bold colors and contrasts.” Among the most iconic pieces featured is the entwined flowers bracelet, which won an award for its innovative design at the original 1925 exhibition. This stunning diamond bracelet exemplifies the Art Deco aesthetic with its groundbreaking ‘mystery setting’ technique, a hallmark that was patented around the same time as the exhibition.
The exhibition further explores other remarkable designs, including minaudière bags and a versatile circle brooch, which can be styled on lapels, hats, scarves, or purses. There are dedicated sections showcasing jewelry and timepieces crafted from white diamonds, alongside a growing appreciation for larger precious and semi-precious stones. Highlights include an impressive statement necklace featuring 165 carats of emeralds, alongside a clip made of jasper and onyx. The trend of adaptable high jewelry, which emerged during this time, can be seen in the diamond tie necklace designed to be worn in multiple ways – front-facing, sideways, or draped down the back. “The tie necklace is an exciting addition as it’s being exhibited for the first time. Its flexibility makes it feel like a ribbon around the neck, and astonishingly, it’s constructed from 958 diamonds,” remarks Maviel-Sonet. “It offers an easy and comfortable wear for anyone.”
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