During her tenure at Fendi, Chiuri played a pivotal role in introducing a remarkable new talent to the brand. Through her connections with Giambattista Valli, Chiuri met Pierpaolo Piccioli while he was still pursuing his studies. When a vacancy on the Fendi accessories team arose, she advocated for his hiring. In a 2012 interview, she fondly reflected on that era, stating: “Back then, fashion felt different and more communal. All the designers collaborated, sharing a unified vision to succeed, without the intense rivalry we often see today—we were all in it together.” Among her circle was Silvia Venturini Fendi, who continues to be a vital part of the house as its Honorary President.
Chiuri and Piccioli established a strong creative duo, which led to the creation of one of the brand’s most iconic accessories: the Baguette. The immense popularity of the Baguette ignited interest from investors looking to acquire Fendi. Eventually, in 1999, the Fendi sisters accepted an offer to sell a majority stake to LVMH and Prada. Both Chiuri and Piccioli chose to depart at that juncture. “We cherished Fendi,” she revealed to Elle Collections in 2011: “It felt like family.” They were resolute in seeking mentorship from a renowned couturier to refine their skills, leading them to Valentino in 1999.
Chiuri’s subsequent achievements, largely under the LVMH umbrella, have made her feminocentric design principles widely recognized. Ironically, this familiarity has led to some underestimating her innovative spirit. Despite her established stature as a designer, her return to Fendi—her fashion “family”—presents an exciting opportunity. With her extensive mastery of clothing and accessory design gained from Valentino, Chiuri is poised to infuse her personal narrative into the collections of a house where she spent her formative years. Unlike Dior, which carries a heavy weight of tradition and significance in the French fashion landscape, Fendi is notably more adaptable. This is why Maria Grazia Chiuri’s new position at Fendi could well mark the most significant chapter of her career.
