Ermanno Scervino: Embracing Lightness in Fashion
When speaking with Ermanno Scervino away from the chaos of fashion shows, it becomes clear that his love for dressing women runs deep. He believes that women should never feel like victims of the clothes they wear, which is why lightness is a defining element in his collections season after season.
Recently photographed at the Grand Hotel et de Milan, Scervino’s pre-fall collection showcased a study in dĂ©shabillĂ©, reminiscent of Elizabeth Taylor in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof. However, he is quick to point out that he values refinement and contemporaneity over nostalgia. His goal is to be irreverent, mixing silk slips with technical fabrics and transforming them into daywear by using luxurious cashmere. The collection also featured straight coats, Prince of Wales jackets, and Harris tweeds juxtaposed with double-faced silk satin, rebrodĂ© lace boots, miniskirts, and shearling.
The color palette of the collection exuded warmth and sophistication, with powder blue, mint green, and burgundy complementing the neutrals. Material innovation played a key role, with herringbone jacquard cashmere masquerading as denim, suede paired with wool in delicate shades, and lambskin leather lightened through perforations. Sheepskin was either waxed, left unlined, or embroidered with intricate openwork motifs. Couture techniques applied to everyday garments added a touch of romanticism to Scervino’s vision.
