Marco De Vincenzo is known for his love of metaphors, and his latest collection for Etro is no exception. Describing it as a “wave between rigor and explosion, abandon and sharper silhouettes,” he paints a vivid picture of the seasonal journey of the Etro spirit. According to De Vincenzo, the collection embodies a bohemian flair, hyper-colored and maximalist, with a touch of madness.
The show opened with a nod to tailored menswear, featuring scarves threaded through slits in the back and sea-wolf peacoats with corset-like inserts. The maximalist aesthetic that Etro is known for was present but tempered, with a softer palette of muted, dusty tones hinting at autumn.
As the show progressed, the collection evolved into more figure-hugging forms and sheer fabrics, with untamed “furs” made from intricate wool constructions. De Vincenzo remarked on the subversive texture of the wool, noting that it defied expectations by not trying to imitate real fur politely.
By the finale, the collection had fully embraced exuberance, with handmade dresses featuring three-dimensional embroidered creatures on a vibrant surface. Decoration in De Vincenzo’s Etro doesn’t just embellish; it multiplies and proliferates, creating a fantastical menagerie of color and texture.
The closing looks were a riot of sequins and feathers, colorful, joyful, and gloriously instinctual. De Vincenzo’s newfound revelry in Etro’s extravagance was evident, with the possibility of these statement pieces making an appearance on the upcoming Oscars red carpet.
In the world of Marco De Vincenzo’s Etro, the brand’s self-regenerating circle continues to evolve, feeding off its own decorative universe like the ouroboros. With each collection, De Vincenzo pushes the boundaries of maximalist design, creating a world where abandon and rigor coexist harmoniously.
