Francesco Murano showcased his second collection at Fondazione Sozzani, drawing inspiration from the androgynous glamour of artist Tamara de Lempicka. De Lempicka, who openly identified as bisexual, was known for her modern style and enigmatic subjects that blurred the lines between masculine and feminine.
Murano’s collection was a stunning display of portraits, combining his love for Greek classicism with his sensual bias cuts. The garments draped the body in silk-jersey fabrics, reminiscent of the sculptural designs of iconic designers Madame Grès and Madeleine Vionnet. Murano was particularly drawn to de Lempicka’s Art Deco aesthetic, which he described as decorative yet minimalistic, with a focus on form and chiaroscuro to sculpt the body with precision.
The collection featured elongated silhouettes with sharp angles, inspired by the photography of Horst P. Horst and George Hoyningen-Huene. The use of angular geometries and structural segments created a sculptural edge, allowing the garments to be subtly molded to the body. Masculine elements like strong shoulders and tailored construction were balanced by fluid, bias-cut fabrics that added a seductive touch.
Murano’s expertise in draping was evident in the controlled yet fluid designs, where structures enhanced the contrast between soft jersey and tailored pieces. The collection exuded a sense of modernity and sensuality, with a focus on clean lines and minimal ornamentation.
Overall, Murano’s collection at Fondazione Sozzani was a beautiful homage to the androgynous glamour of Tamara de Lempicka, blending classicism with a modern twist. The designer’s meticulous attention to detail and innovative design techniques make this collection a standout in the world of fashion.
