John Alexander Skelton is known for delving into intriguing aspects of British history to inspire his fashion collections. This season, his focus was on Anna Maria Garthwaite, an 18th-century silk designer who stood apart by favoring floral patterns over the then-popular geometric ones. Her designs, which drew inspiration from the local flora of East London, remain preserved in the collections of the V&A and The Met. “I was researching the Huguenot silk weavers who fled to Spitalfields in the 18th century from France due to religious persecution, and she was a bit of a revelation,” Skelton shared, emphasizing that while little is known about her life, her impact was significant. “She was kind of the only woman doing it at that level, and she bought her own house, which was rare at the time, so I imagine she must have been quite formidable.”
Despite the significant gentrification of Spitalfields over the years, the area still retains some of its historic charm with Georgian terraces and weathered brickwork. This atmospheric setting serves as an ideal backdrop for Skelton’s creative endeavors. His studio, located in a historic East London building, was the site for photographing his latest lookbook. The shoot spanned two houses that had once been occupied by weavers from Garthwaite’s era, with one still housing original looms and silk bobbins, lending an authentic historical air.
The collection itself reflects a playful spirit, infused with the floral motifs inspired by Garthwaite’s artistry. Skelton and his team reinterpreted these designs in watercolor, applying them as delicate patterns on garments, or transforming them into luxurious golden silk jacquards. Skelton’s strength lies in his ability to draw from history and create something that resonates with modern sensibilities. The collection’s styling—featuring collared striped knits paired with slubby silk jackets, red work coats cinched at the waist, and a relaxed black-and-gray striped suit with a yellow silk tie—would be equally at home in a contemporary street style gallery from Milan or Paris. The leather shoulder bags, crafted with oak bark tanning and adorned with hardware by Slim Barrett, further highlight Skelton’s attention to detail.
Primarily recognized as a menswear designer, Skelton has noticed a growing interest from women in his collections. This shift is reflected in his lookbook, which includes female models wearing his designs as naturally as their male counterparts. “It started with just women’s shops approaching us and buying the menswear, and as more people began to ask, we started offering smaller sizes,” he explained. “It’s kind of opened up a new avenue for me.”
Nonetheless, Skelton remains firm in his approach, choosing not to develop a separate womenswear line. He prefers to integrate it seamlessly within his existing collections. “I spent quite a long time figuring it out, because I’d never done women’s patterns before, but this season we decided to do a few more pieces,” he added. “It’s growing in a more organic way, which is nice.” His experience over the past decade has taught him that a gradual, steady approach is key to the brand’s success.
