Undercover may be presenting its final collection as a fully independent label. The brand, which is 80% owned by founder Jun Takahashi and 20% by his younger brother Hiroshi, is on the brink of significant structural changes. Human Made Corporation, established by Nigo, has entered into a non-binding agreement to acquire Undercover. They aim to finalize a 100% share purchase by September 2026, with a complete transfer expected by February 2027.
Despite these changes, it is likely that the Takahashi brothers will remain involved with the brand, which they founded in 1990, for several more years. Human Made is anticipated to be a supportive partner, possibly bringing positive transformations. Nonetheless, a shift in control would represent a fundamental change in Undercover’s creative direction.
The recent collection appeared to emphasize charming details. Clothing was adorned with lace, cat prints, or concealed beneath sheer panels that softened but did not completely obscure their shapes. A brown V-neck dress featured navy bands at the sleeves and hem. Oversized T-shirts, boxy shirts, and cropped jackets were layered with translucent gauze. The collection included mannish shirts extended into tunics, relaxed wide shorts and trousers, and seemingly simple garments made complex with aprons, slips, bibs, and loose overlays.
Many designs were conceived as subtle commentaries on femininity’s traditional tropes. White shirts appeared under corset-like black panels or with side splits revealing pleated underlayers. Gingham, denim, and sailor-inspired ribbon ties added sweetness, while Takahashi introduced unexpected proportions and intricate details, staying true to Undercover’s distinctive style.
