The fashion industry presents a significant sustainability challenge within the global economy, having operated largely unregulated for most of the last decade. This scenario is now changing. Over the past 18 months, California has enacted the first U.S. law mandating extended producer responsibility (EPR) for textiles, France has implemented strict anti-fast-fashion regulations, and the European Union has set a 2027 deadline for member states to establish a textile EPR program.
Every second, a truckload of clothing ends up in landfills or is incinerated globally. This isn’t just a metaphor. The fashion industry generates approximately 92 million metric tons of waste annually, and if practices remain unchanged, this figure could rise to 148 million metric tons by 2030.
Meanwhile, the resale market is expanding at a rate approximately three times faster than traditional retail. While the industry has room for improvement, there are now tangible systems in place to ensure accountability.
The Scale of the Problem
How significant is fashion’s impact? The scope is vast, debated, and continually growing. According to the UN Environment Programme, the fashion industry is responsible for 8 to 10 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions. Experts may debate the exact numbers, but there’s consensus that the issue is worsening.
The Apparel Impact Institute, supported by brands like H&M, Target, PVH, and Lululemon, reported a 7.5 percent increase in apparel sector emissions in 2023. This marked the first annual rise since 2019, attributed to overproduction, ultra-fast fashion, and increased use of virgin polyester, which now constitutes 57 percent of global fiber production.
Regardless of which figures are cited, the trend is alarming. Annually, 80 to 100 billion new garments are manufactured. Since 2000, clothing production has doubled, and garments are now worn 36 percent fewer times before disposal. Synthetic fibers, predominantly fossil fuel-derived polyester, account for about 57 percent of global fiber production and are projected to increase.
The fashion industry’s water usage is enormous by industrial standards. Producing one cotton T-shirt requires about 2,700 liters of water, enough for one person’s drinking needs for 900 days. A pair of jeans takes about 7,500 liters. Textile dyeing and treatment rank as the world’s second-largest source of water pollution, contributing about 20 percent of industrial water pollution. Synthetic garments also release microplastics with each wash. The IUCN estimates that 35 percent of primary microplastics in the ocean originate from synthetic textiles like polyester, nylon, and acrylic, with volume rising alongside increased synthetic use.
Following technology manufacturing, garment production remains one of the industries most affected by modern slavery and child labor, as per International Labour Organization data. These issues are prevalent in early production stages, such as cotton farms, dye houses, and fabric mills, which are less visible than brand-name factories.
Fast Fashion, Faster: The Shein and Temu Problem
In recent years, ultra-fast fashion has emerged, making older models like Zara and H&M seem sluggish by comparison. Platforms like Shein and Temu introduce thousands of new styles daily, produce items on demand in Chinese factories, and ship directly to global customers.
The environmental toll is substantial. Shein’s reports indicate its greenhouse gas emissions nearly doubled from 2022 to 2023, reaching 16.7 million metric tons of CO₂ equivalent, almost matching Inditex, Zara’s parent company, which is five times larger by revenue. In 2024, Shein’s transportation emissions alone exceeded 8.5 million metric tons, over three times that of Inditex. Temu has not disclosed its emissions data, but third-party estimates suggest an annual footprint between 4 and 6 million metric tons of CO₂e, primarily from shipping over a million air-freight parcels daily.
These business models not only shift environmental costs onto others but also depend on them. This underpins the drive for new regulations.
The New Regulatory Landscape
Historically, sustainability promises in fashion were voluntary, difficult to verify, and largely ineffective. This is finally changing. Three significant developments in the past 18 months warrant attention.
California’s Responsible Textile Recovery Act (SB 707)
Governor Gavin Newsom enacted SB 707 in September 2024, making California the first U.S. state to mandate extended producer responsibility for textiles. This law shifts the responsibility for end-of-use management of apparel, footwear, and household textiles from consumers and municipalities to the companies that market these products. Companies with under $1 million in annual global revenue are exempt; others must join a state-approved Producer Responsibility Organization (PRO) to finance collection, repair, reuse, sorting, and recycling.
Implementation is phased. On February 27, 2026, CalRecycle appointed Landbell USA as California’s textile PRO. Producers must register with the PRO by July 1, 2026. A statewide needs assessment continues through 2027, with final regulations due by July 2028, and full enforcement beginning July 1, 2030, with noncompliance fines up to $50,000 per day.
France’s Anti–Fast Fashion Law
In June 2025, the French Senate passed the most stringent anti-fast-fashion legislation globally by a vote of 337 to 1. The law imposes a per-item eco-tax starting at €5 and increasing to €10 by 2030 (capped at 50 percent of retail price), bans advertising and influencer marketing of ultra-fast-fashion brands, requires point-of-sale environmental disclosures including carbon footprint and durability data, and enforces fines up to €100,000 for violating the ad ban. Revenue supports French sustainable-fashion producers.
The law targets Shein and Temu. In November 2025, French authorities requested a three-month suspension of Shein’s platform over illicit product sales—days after Shein opened its first physical store in Paris. The European Commission issued a detailed opinion on the French law in September 2025; other EU member states are monitoring developments.
The EU Waste Framework Directive
Revisions to the EU Waste Framework Directive require each member state to have separate textile waste collection by January 2025 and a fully operational textile EPR scheme by 2027. France’s EPR program, operational since 2008, and the Netherlands (2023) are already active. Italy, Spain, and others have draft decrees under public consultation. Outside the EU, Switzerland, Australia, and Chile are developing national frameworks.
In the U.S., besides California, New York’s Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act (A4631) and Senate Bill S3217A continued into the 2026 session. Washington State introduced HB 1420 in January 2025; as of March 2026, it remains in committee. None have passed.
The Resale Market Is Doing What Regulation Hasn’t
While policymakers develop new rules, consumers are already altering their habits. ThredUp’s 2025 Resale Report indicates the U.S. secondhand clothing market grew by 14 percent in 2024, five times faster than traditional retail. It’s projected to reach $74 billion by 2029. Globally, the secondhand market could soar to $367 billion by 2029, growing 2.7 times faster than the overall apparel market.
A generational divide is evident. In 2024, 58 percent of U.S. consumers bought secondhand clothing. Among those aged 18 to 44, 48 percent now prioritize secondhand when shopping for clothes. Thirty-nine percent of younger shoppers have purchased secondhand items via social platforms like Instagram or TikTok Shop.
Resale alone can’t solve fashion’s environmental impact. Extending a garment’s life is beneficial only if it replaces a new purchase. Nonetheless, this represents the most substantial shift in consumer behavior the industry has seen in a generation.
What Sustainable Fashion Actually Means
Sustainable fashion involves a supply chain accountable for both environmental and human factors at every stage. This encompasses using fibers that require less water, fewer chemicals, and emit lower pollution; manufacturing with renewable energy; ensuring fair wages and safe working conditions; producing durable, repairable products; and recycling materials into new clothing instead of converting them into insulation or sending them to landfills in places like Ghana or Chile.
It’s a comprehensive list, and no brand meets every criterion. However, more brands are making tangible progress. Patagonia, Eileen Fisher, and Pangaia publish detailed impact reports verified by independent experts. Brands employing leftover fabrics, made-to-order production, and closed-loop recycling are gradually increasing. Certifications like Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) for organic fibers, Fair Trade Certified for labor, and bluesign for chemical management are significant when seen on a label.
Fashion remains the most greenwashed segment of the consumer goods industry. Terms like “conscious,” “eco,” and “sustainable” aren’t regulated in the U.S. What truly matters are specific certifications, published supply-chain data, and third-party audits—not marketing slogans.
Take Action At Home
Individual actions won’t resolve fashion’s major issues, but they influence demand. This demand can prompt companies and legislators to enact change. Practical steps, ranked by impact, include:
- Buy less, buy better. The most impactful choice is reducing the influx of new clothing into your closet. A capsule wardrobe of durable, versatile pieces worn frequently outperforms any “sustainable” label on a fast-fashion cycle.
- Shop secondhand first. ThredUp, Poshmark, Depop, The RealReal, Vinted, and local thrift and consignment stores now offer selection and convenience comparable to traditional retail.
- Get familiar with clothing materials. Natural fibers like organic cotton, linen, hemp, and wool typically have a smaller environmental footprint at their life’s end compared to synthetics. Recycled polyester is preferable to new polyester, but it still releases microfibers.
- Use a microfiber filter. Tools like the Guppyfriend wash bag or washing machine filters can capture many synthetic microfibers before they enter the water system.
- Repair before replacing. Visible mending, basic tailoring, and simple patches can extend a garment’s life by years.
- Take care of your clothes so they last longer. Wash them in cold water, air-dry when possible, and avoid the dry cleaner unless necessary. These steps help reduce emissions and wear on your clothes.
- Recycle clothes instead of throwing them away. When items are no longer wearable, look for textile recycling options using Earth911’s recycling locator or a store take-back program. Landfilling clothes should be the last resort.
- Support new policies. Laws regarding textile EPR, supply-chain transparency, and anti-greenwashing are under consideration in many states. These laws are more likely to pass when constituents contact their representatives.
Fashion is a clear example of how the global economy influences our daily lives. As it is so visible, everyone is part of the problem—yet when change occurs, it is readily apparent.
Editor’ Note: Originally written by Gemma Alexander on April 8, 2022, this article was substantially updated in April 2026.
