Auralee: Embracing the Charm of Winter with Ryota Iwai

There’s no time for SAD in the Auralee universe. Winter might be the gloomiest time of year, but for Ryota Iwai, the Tokyo designer behind the brand, it’s just as charming as all of the other seasons. “There are plenty of things I like about winter,” said Iwai. “When you wake up in the morning and step outside, the air is clear and crisp. The daylight hours might be short, but there’s a soft sunlight that’s unique to winter, and a certain beauty in that.”

Before his show at the Musée de l’Homme, Iwai shared his vision for the season – to take the darkness and heaviness of winter and bless it with some of his signature lightness. This was achieved through the materials that floated across the runway with the irresistible ease Auralee has become known for.

The collection opened with an American Gigolo-esque camel trench that was actually made of cashmere corduroy, setting the tone for the clever use of fabrics throughout the show. Leather jackets appeared thin and light as nylon but had a touch of down padding at the back to add volume. Iwai’s faultless fabrics and innovative silhouettes kept the audience captivated.

The color and texture study continued with velvety mauve trousers, shearling suede jackets, marled wools, translucent silk georgette shirting, and minimal MA1 bombers with fur detailing. Iwai aimed to create clothing that defied traditional winter expectations, and he succeeded in delivering a collection that was both unexpected and covetable.

As the show unfolded to the soundtrack of “Autumn Sweater” by Yo La Tengo, the audience was treated to a visual feast of colors and textures. However, towards the end, the show lost a bit of momentum as the black pieces took over.

With Auralee’s growing popularity and influence in the menswear industry, there is a sentiment that the brand’s minimalist aesthetic may be too safe. However, Iwai remains focused on creating clothing that is natural and welcoming, rather than chasing trends or making bold statements.

Despite the brand’s unintentional rise to prominence, Iwai’s humble charm and sensitivity shine through in his designs, ensuring that Auralee will continue to be a favorite among fashion enthusiasts for years to come.