Brunello Cucinelli exemplified his own design philosophy during the unveiling of his latest collection, aimed at the “contemporary man who refuses imposed definitions.” Unlike his usual presentations at his conservatory-showroom, Cucinelli attended the Shanghai International Film Festival for a screening of a documentary by Giuseppe Tornatore about his life, fashion, and philosophy.
Despite his absence in Milan, Cucinelli’s influence was unmistakable in the collection. Central to the showcase were pieces that harked back to Cucinelli’s initial success with cashmere sweaters. Displayed on varnished bamboo in the conservatory were a dozen cable-knit cardigans, crew necks, and half-zips in shades ranging from blues to sage green, apricot, orange, and raspberry. Each garment underwent multi-stage dyeing with a resin treatment, creating a striking contrast between the lighter raised parts of the knit and the darker areas beneath, forming a sort of negative space in knitwear.
The collection also featured tailoring that subtly evolved through fabric choices, treatments, or overall presentation. Jackets mostly retained a classic sartorial structure, featuring Cucinelli’s preferred broad lapels, but were crafted from materials such as washed white linen and seven-ounce indigo denim.
The collection blended formal and casual styles. A navy dinner jacket paired with white pleated trousers instead of traditional tuxedo pants, and a white pinstripe blazer was combined with a pale sweater draped over the shoulders and washed cargo trousers below. The aim was not to create sharp contrasts but to gently differentiate elements of uniformity.
In addition, the collection included safari and field jackets made from pale gray washed cotton, dark brown suede, and leather. These were styled with shirts and ties, occasionally layered under the season’s washed cable knits, and paired with shorts or tailored trousers. Leather blousons and biker-style jackets in pale brown received a surface treatment that resulted in visible lightening and abrasion on the panels. Similar to the wash used on the cable knits, this treatment introduced a subtle tension between the soft texture and the robust visual appearance, creating a dynamic interplay between facade and feeling.
