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Tech and Science

Death by Fermented Food | Scientific American

Last updated: December 7, 2025 11:40 am
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Death by Fermented Food | Scientific American
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Death by Fermented Food

By Michaela Maya-Mrschtik

I have recently developed a newfound appreciation for fermented foods. From yogurt to kimchi, miso, and sauerkraut, I now enjoy a variety of these probiotic-rich foods on a daily basis. Many nutrition guides tout the benefits of fermented foods for gut health and overall well-being.

However, not all fermented foods are created equal. Some can harbor dangerous bacteria that produce potent toxins, such as bongkrekic acid. This toxin can lead to severe cases of food poisoning, as evidenced by a tragic incident that occurred in a town in eastern China in October 2020.

In this incident, twelve people consumed a meal together that included sour soup made with noodles fermented from corn that had been stored improperly for too long. Within hours of consuming the meal, the individuals began experiencing symptoms of food poisoning, including abdominal pain, nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. Despite seeking medical help, nine of the twelve people succumbed to the effects of the toxin within a matter of days.

Bongkrekic acid is an extremely potent toxin, with even small amounts proving lethal to adults. In the case mentioned, the concentration of the toxin in the homemade noodles exceeded the lethal dose by 20 to 30 times. What makes bongkrekic acid particularly dangerous is that it does not break down during cooking, and its presence is undetectable by taste or smell.

While the incident in China was linked to fermented corn, bongkrekic acid was originally associated with a fermented soy product called Tempeh Bongkrek. Due to numerous cases of poisoning in Indonesia, the production of Tempeh Bongkrek was banned in 1988. However, clandestine production of this food item still persists, posing a risk to consumers.

Bongkrekic acid is produced by the bacterium Burkholderia gladioli pathovar cocovenenans, which thrives on moist, starch-rich cereals during fermentation. In addition to maize, foods like sweet potato flour and rice noodles have been implicated in outbreaks of bongkrekic acid poisoning in various regions.

While cases of bongkrekic acid poisoning have historically been concentrated in Southeast Asia, instances have also been reported in Africa and North America in recent years. The global spread of this toxin underscores the importance of food safety regulations and public awareness.

In conclusion, while fermented foods offer numerous health benefits, it is crucial to be aware of potential risks associated with certain types of fermentation. Proper food handling, storage, and preparation practices are essential in mitigating the dangers posed by toxins like bongkrekic acid. Stay informed and stay safe when exploring the world of fermented foods.

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