The Elegance and Ease of Duro Olowu’s Latest Collection

When Duro Olowu unveils his collections, it’s not just about the clothes but also about the presentation. Normally, Olowu would talk through the looks as models strut down the runway in his vibrant and eclectic designs, either in his lavishly wallpapered showroom in St. James’s or in a friend’s equally maximalist home. This season, however, the setting was different as his pieces were displayed in the clean, white-walled Sadie Coles gallery on Bury Street. Olowu expressed his appreciation for the simplicity of the backdrop, allowing the focus to solely be on the clothes without any distractions.

This season, Olowu opted for a more refined approach, with many looks eschewing his usual bold patterns in favor of head-to-toe black ensembles. Despite the monochromatic palette, there was nothing somber about his use of the color. Exquisite details like voluminous sleeves, trumpet skirts in hand-embossed brocade silk, textured black bouclé fabrics, and shimmering black paillettes added depth and richness to the collection. Olowu described his use of black as “emotional,” showcasing a range of textures and silhouettes that exuded modern elegance.

The inspiration behind the collection stemmed from Olowu’s memories of his mother’s Jamaican relatives in 1970s London, particularly his stylish cousins who embraced ’40s-inspired fashion with a modern twist. He also drew influence from Jamaican-born British photographer Armet Francis, whose captivating images of women in Brixton Market in the ’70s embodied a sense of elegance and cool determination.

During the presentation, guests were enamored by Olowu’s innovative designs, such as argyle wool jersey knit hats and scarves, and meticulously crafted jackets and dresses featuring abstract coral-like prints. The event was not only a showcase of fashion but also a social gathering where conversations about art, politics, and film seamlessly intertwined with discussions about the collection.

Overall, Olowu’s ability to blend elegance with ease is what sets his designs apart. His latest collection pays homage to the past while remaining distinctly modern, capturing the essence of sophistication and individuality that defines his brand.