After twelve years and nine collections of innovative menswear, designer Jerry Lorenzo has made a significant leap by unveiling his first complete Fear Of God mainline womenswear collection. Initially previewed in Paris during the menswear shows this past June, Lorenzo sat down for an insightful discussion with Vogue Runway last Friday, sharing his thoughts on this much-anticipated addition to his brand. “I finally felt I was at the point where I could transmit ease and elegance through construction and lightness,” he expressed.
Lorenzo’s detail-oriented approach to design begs the question: did transitioning from menswear to womenswear present unique challenges? “In menswear, I’m chasing a feeling—a feeling I know instinctively. Not being a woman puts me at somewhat of a disadvantage because I can’t innately understand that specific feeling. That was the most challenging aspect for me,” he reflected.
A cornerstone of the collection drew from Lorenzo’s deep-rooted expertise in sportswear and notably baseball attire. Here, he showcased his refined elevation of sportswear codes within the womenswear domain, presenting pieces such as a cropped, sculpturally designed hooded jacket paired with matching drawstring-waisted pants made from slate-toned nylon taffeta. The collection also features a striking black double-faced wool/cashmere coat highlighted by a baseball collar and a high-slit hem.
In other areas, Lorenzo adapted his unique design ethos to navigate this new landscape, skillfully avoiding any reliance on his menswear past. A standout item is a spaghetti-strap slip dress crafted in sheer wool-viscose voile, designed with a bias cut that gracefully hugs the body. Lorenzo remarked on its versatility: “I love the simplicity. You can wear it as shown in the lookbook, super chic and straightforward, or throw it on with Doc Martens and a flannel for a tougher look. It’s meant to look effortless, but it took me 12 or 13 samples to perfect it.”
The collection also boasts a dark ochre boat neck dress in wool with a vented hem, artistically weighted to gather and flow with movement. A floor-length dress shirt offers a familiar silhouette but is reimagined in fluid, skittish hammered silk chiffon. Experimenting with diverse materials, including sheer jerseys and lightweight cashmeres, proved to be both “fun and frustrating,” Lorenzo shared candidly. Nevertheless, he views the venture into womenswear as a crucial learning experience, stating, “This is the most exciting new frontier for the house.”
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