Huishan Zhang approaches his fashion collections with precision and thoughtfulness, even when working on transitional lines like resort and pre-fall. He draws inspiration from a wide range of sources, including art, architecture, and film, selecting a muse for each collection; this time, it is Marella Agnelli. Rather than directly translating these influences, Zhang aims to evoke a mood, creating a scene that reflects his emotions at the time of designing.
Marella Agnelli, a style icon of the 1960s, inspired Zhang to explore the theme of “transformation.” This concept translated into layered looks, such as super-soft cashmere cardigans draped over dresses or paired with intricately adorned pencil skirts. “This is what I imagine she’d wear now,” Zhang remarked about Agnelli, expressing a wish that he could have met her.
Familiar elements like floral brocade, appliqué, and embroidery were reimagined on a larger, more expressive scale, adding a three-dimensional quality. Richard Avedon’s portraits of Agnelli influenced the elongated silhouettes of the collection’s tops, featuring cascading neck ties and sharply tailored trousers, presenting a fresh take. The closing pieces, crafted from lightweight crepe jersey, offered a more body-skimming silhouette compared to Zhang’s typical structured designs, marking a new direction in his dress offerings.
