Khoki has been exploring its origins.
Managed by a group of innovative designers who prefer to stay under the radar, the brand has been gaining attention among fans of menswear but has sometimes found it challenging to clearly define its design concept. This season, the team sought to address this by clarifying their artistic expression, posing the question: What gives something the essence of ‘Khoki’? The exploration revealed themes such as flea markets, the beauty in disorder, and recurring elements of American folk art.
In the previous season, an emphasis on Kyoto hand-dyeing led to a diminished presence of the brand’s signature features, like its quilting. Although visually appealing, this shift left buyers perplexed. “In my mind, it was a kind of chaotic beauty, merging Japanese traditions with everything else into a single collection. But from a sales standpoint, it didn’t quite connect,” explained Koki Abe.
For Fall 2026, the focus is on introspection and cohesion, with the collection being photographed in Abe’s childhood home. “It symbolizes the convergence of my team’s work and my family home. We aimed to capture the landscape of my hometown, which felt dull and confining back then,” he shared. The collection featured puffy floral pieces repurposed from “uncool” cushion covers found at Abe’s parents’ and aunt’s homes. These were combined with bow-legged painter pants and flowing pinstripe trousers that contrasted with plush velvet mini skirts.
The most captivating pieces were those that highlighted the brand’s greatest asset: its playful nature. This was evident in MA-1 bombers enlivened with vibrant patchwork, romantic lace cuffs emerging from striped shirts, and rugged canvas workwear jackets fused with unexpectedly soft Cowichan sweaters. The collection was undeniably charming—and distinctly Khoki.
