The Evolution of Marques’Almeida: A Look Back at the Iconic London Label

The mid-10s saw a resurgence of iconic fashion trends, with embellished denim, bomber jackets, and vibrant color palettes dominating the scene in 2016. Leading the charge were design duo Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, the creative minds behind the London-based label Marques’Almeida. Their innovative designs had caught the attention of the fashion world, winning them the prestigious LVMH prize and earning them a spot in the wardrobes of celebrities like Rihanna.

After a brief hiatus in their native Portugal and Paris, Marques and Almeida returned to London with a bang, showcasing their Spring 2017 collection in the vibrant streets of Brick Lane. Vogue’s Chioma Nnadi described the collection as “a little bit punk, a little bit coquette, a whole lot of street attitude,” featuring raw-hemmed denim ensembles and paisley print slips layered over sports tees.

Fast forward to the present day, and Marques’Almeida is back in East London, unveiling a collection that pays homage to their roots while pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion. The designers aimed to refine their signature style, embracing the codes that have defined their brand for over a decade and elevating them for a new generation of fashion enthusiasts.

“This collection is like an anchor for us,” explained Marques. “It embodies the DNA of Marques’Almeida that we have been cultivating for nearly 15 years. We are evolving alongside our clients, while staying true to the work that has brought us to where we are today.”

Almeida added, “We have grown more confident in owning our unique aesthetic. In the past, we may have shied away from embracing our signature style, but now we proudly stand by it. Our loyal customers have come to identify with our distinctive approach to fashion.”

The latest collection showcases a mix of textures and fabrics, from croc-like materials to brocade lurex. Utilitarian silhouettes like raw-edged denim jackets and grungy plaids are reimagined in luxurious satin and bias-cut slips. The designers play with contrasts, pairing glamorous gowns with casual parkas and mixing sporty tank tops with sculptural skirts.

Marques and Almeida draw inspiration from their design research days at Central Saint Martins, where a juxtaposition of elegance and edginess became a defining theme. Their pre-fall collection features nods to ’80s fashion trends, with baroque details adorning stock market trader shirts and sky blue croc bomber jackets making a statement.

At the core of Marques’Almeida’s ethos is community, and the designers are committed to deepening their connections with their M’A girl-turned-woman muse. The pre-fall collection serves as a foundation for future expansion and outreach efforts, signaling a new chapter for the iconic London label.