Amid a rising chorus from brands, designers, and artisans emphasizing a return to their roots, MaXhosa, the sole African brand featured on the official Paris Fashion Week schedule, finds itself at the forefront of this vital dialogue.
For the past 15 years, MaXhosa has been dedicated to showcasing cultural authenticity on the global fashion platform. Laduma Ngxokolo, the brand’s founder and a trained knitwear engineer, shares a vision akin to that of renowned French heritage brands: to transform heritage and craftsmanship into a contemporary style. “MaXhosa expresses its cultural narrative through the techniques we employ,” Ngxokolo articulated backstage ahead of the show.
The showcase highlighted over 30 vibrant looks, featuring a stunning array of ruffled fabrications influenced by traditional beadwork, possibly paired with graphic jackets that showcased a unique pulled thread method. The collection, titled Izipho Zabadala, which translates to Gifts for the Ancestors, reflects a heartfelt tribute. Ngxokolo remarked it was intended as “a celebration of culture,” from the clothing to loop-fringed belts, architecturally-inspired hairstyles, and an expanding accessories line.
Colors are deeply woven into the fabric of African cultures, with beadwork patterns serving as a vital form of self-expression. The designer incorporated a distressed and “glitch” aesthetic here and there, but this collection is merely a glimpse of his vision for a more comprehensive runway presentation in the future. In his South African stores, as well as at the New York location opened last year, garments in vibrant hues are positioned alongside subtle, monochromatic options. An increasing number of pieces are designed to be modular—skirts can connect to tops, sleeves can be removed, even dresses may consist of five distinct sections—affording wearers the flexibility to blend these items with their existing wardrobe, as the designer explained.
“African culture transcends borders and speaks a universal language,” Ngxokolo noted. “Our goal is to establish a signature that is distinct and authentically South African. Our community resonates with it. I aspire to present that cultural essence on a global stage.”
