Alberto Caliri Takes the Helm as Missoni’s Creative Director
After the departure of Filippo Grazioli in October, Alberto Caliri has been appointed as Missoni’s creative director. With a long history at the brand dating back to 1998, Caliri has worked his way up from fabric designer to Angela Missoni’s right-hand man. In 2021, he briefly served as interim creative director, designing two collections before transitioning to oversee the label’s home collection. Now, he has officially taken the helm of a brand he knows inside out. At a recent pre-fall appointment, Caliri appeared calm and collected, unfazed by his new role in the spotlight.
Despite his deep understanding of Missoni, Caliri’s approach to the brand’s heritage is largely instinctive. He admits to never delving deeply into the archive with a reverential or analytical focus. His design aesthetic is rooted in his technical knowledge of knitting, where the interplay of yarns and colors creates unique fabrics with a distinct texture. “Missoni’s sense of color has a richness and depth that I want to revitalize,” Caliri explained.
In his exploration of the archive, Caliri found that the colors were darker and less vibrant than what Missoni has become known for in recent years. Beyond the signature zigzag patterns, he discovered a treasure trove of stripes, tartans, and intricate jacquards, which he described as “rather complex.” He also noted Ottavio Missoni’s masculine sense of insouciant comfort that resonated strongly in the women’s collections. This influence led him to introduce greater structure and reduced layering, along with a sense of lightness and a mix of diverse possibilities.
For the pre-fall collection, Caliri expanded the range of tailoring and outerwear, using the flexibility of knitwear to create suits, cocoon coats, and trench coats that exude everyday versatility. The eveningwear was particularly striking, featuring sensuous slip dresses in soft striped lurex that draped elegantly on the body, as well as plissé gowns designed for luxurious comfort.
Caliri’s experience and approach to balancing practicality with artistic flair bode well for refreshing Missoni’s iconic visuals. However, to attract a younger audience and boost market appeal, he may need to inject some excitement and bold gestures to breathe new life into the brand.
With Caliri at the helm, Missoni is poised for a new chapter of innovation and creativity, staying true to its heritage while embracing modernity and fresh perspectives.
