The spring 2026 collections kicked off in Shanghai on October 10, but it was Jingwei Yin’s Oude Waag showcase on Saturday night that truly ignited the festivities. Over the past two years since Vogue Runway began its coverage of Shanghai Fashion Week, Yin has transformed from a promising newcomer to one of the main attractions on the schedule. This evolution can be attributed to the electrifying glamour of his runway shows, which often set the tone for the week, and his exquisite dresses, which are starting to make their way to the U.S. market. Notably, Charlize Theron donned a piece by Yin during her appearance on Jimmy Kimmel Live! earlier this year.
In light of his success, Yin mentioned the desire to elevate his craft; backstage after his show, he discussed pushing his creative boundaries. Among his standout innovations were a series of straight-line crepe skirts paired with hip-revealing silk mesh waistbands, as well as dresses and blouses enveloping the body over sheer bodysuits. Additionally, Yin skillfully draped and shirred georgette into capelets and tops that flared from collars, infusing the collection with a sense of movement and a softer aesthetic.
Having rapidly established his signature styles—according to a showroom manager, buyers now easily recognize the Oude Waag cut and texture—Yin is diligently working to enhance the commercial aspect of his brand. This has involved refining his tailoring, maintaining his sleek and sharp shoulder lines while simplifying designs for a more accessible and wearable silhouette.
Yin also expressed his commitment to creating something entirely unique, which involved using a more structured satin for silhouettes he referred to as “more architectural and sculptural, flowing in the air.” This was evident, particularly in the pair of closing dresses, which introduced a fresh silhouette—pun intended—to Yin’s signature techniques. Most importantly, these designs carved out a distinct avenue for Yin to explore further, as the away-from-the-body shapes were a delightful surprise.
