Rolf Ekroth had big plans to showcase his latest collection in a unique way – by moving it from a traditional runway show in Copenhagen to a dance party/presentation in a techno club in Paris. However, just weeks before the men’s season was set to begin, his plans went up in smoke. The collection itself was inspired by the idea of things going up in flames, with pieces like a “pyro” T-shirt and electric candles. This led some to wonder if there was a play-with-fire-and-get-burned scenario at play.
Ekroth, a former professional poker player, made the decision to pivot and “live to fight another day.” Zooming in from his cramped atelier in Helsinki, he explained that the combination of operating on a tight budget while trying to stay informed about current events (such as the tense relationship between Finland and Russia) was overwhelming. The physical constraints of his small atelier, filled to the brim with clothing racks and cartons, added to the sense of being caged in.
Feeling the walls closing in on him, Ekroth initially toyed with the idea of burning all of his old designs and starting fresh. However, upon further reflection, he decided to rework and reinvigorate his existing pieces. This season, he took a more material approach, editing and expanding on existing patterns to create a tight, cohesive collection that highlighted the brand’s strengths in active and outerwear.
The collection featured wild pattern clashes and mixes, like pairing plaid with abstract camo prints or checks with florals. Ekroth played with extreme widths, using pleats on wide-leg pants and hanging gloves on trousers at hip level to create a sense of volume. He also revisited detachable scarf panels from previous seasons, adding a playful element to the designs.
In the midst of a world that often feels like it’s on fire, Ekroth’s collection exuded a sense of purpose, preparedness, and protection, balanced with a touch of playfulness. The use of detachable gloves, a nod to Finnish childhood traditions, and the introduction of Pyro, a cartoon cat character, added whimsy to the lineup. The final look, a cat hat/mask and openwork sweater with hand-applied fringe in the shape and colors of a flame, was a standout piece executed by Ekroth’s parents.
Overall, Ekroth’s collection showcased his ability to adapt and innovate in the face of challenges, creating a dynamic and engaging lineup that was both thought-provoking and visually striking.
