Scary Good: How Hollywood’s Most Talented Costume Designers Bring Horror Films to Life

Later this month, the highly anticipated Vogue World: Hollywood will be hosted on the legendary grounds of Paramount Pictures Studio in Los Angeles. This event will honor the vibrant dialogue between cinema and fashion, showcasing the artistry of celebrated Hollywood costume designers like Colleen Atwood, Ruth E. Carter, Arianne Phillips, and many others. With the event approaching—coinciding with the thrilling Halloween season—it’s a perfect time to contemplate the significant impact costume design has had within the horror film genre. While you might typically associate costume design with glamorous or historical styles, there is a rich trove of creatively eerie designs that have stirred excitement just as fervently.

Consider this: striking costumes are essential for crafting a memorable horror movie, often accompanying captivating music and special effects. For decades, costume designers have given life to chilling characters such as Ghostface and Michael Myers, crafting unique looks that linger in our minds (and prompt some of us to check under the bed at night). Think about the iconic hockey mask of Jason or Freddy Krueger’s striped sweater paired with deadly claws—each vision brought to life by a talented costume designer.

Among the most recognizable on-screen villains is Ghostface from Scream. When the Wes Craven franchise debuted in 1996, costume designer Cynthia Bergstrom creatively devised the iconic outfit. She drew her inspiration from the famous Edvard Munch painting Scream, even experimenting with an all-white costume initially. “When we put a friend in the white outfit, he looked like a giant Casper the Ghost,” Bergstrom recounted. The choice of a less distinguishable black cloak became quintessential for such a predatory figure that often lurks unseen.

Moreover, some horror films feature fashion that is surprisingly sophisticated. In American Psycho, designed by Isis Mussenden, Christian Bale embodies the polished businessman Patrick Bateman, elegantly dressed in his tailored Cerruti suits during the day. However, at night, he secretly hunts his victims, a stark contrast to his impeccable daytime appearance. “He had to look perfect,” Mussenden noted earlier this year during the film’s 25th anniversary observation. In the chilling 2019 release Midsommar, the sinister cult members don vibrant floral adornments and prairie dresses, masking their disturbing practices of ritual suicides and predation on unsuspecting tourists.

These malevolent characters are often mirrored by the final girls who manage to escape their grasp. From the skirted Tippi Hedren in The Birds to denim-clad Neve Campbell in Scream, horror film costume designers have crafted unforgettable personas that continue to appear at Halloween celebrations. Much like their artistic approach in other genres, costume designers utilize the characters’ wardrobe as a vital storytelling device—helping heighten the narrative and evoke emotion, even in the midst of utter dread.

Consider the cozy chunky J.Crew sweater combined with jeans that Bergstrom selected for Drew Barrymore’s character in the iconic opening scene of Scream. “I aimed for something basic, which fits her while she’s at home making popcorn,” Bergstrom explained. This wasn’t just an inviting outfit; it was an intentional choice that allowed the audience to connect deeply with her character, making it easy to visualize yourself frightened and pursued at home, just as she was.

It can even be stated that these costume designers serve as some of Hollywood’s unsung champions, elevating gruesome horror elements into true art. The lack of recognition for the horror genre in significant awards shows has been evident for years, though the tide seems to be turning, with impactful films like The Substance and Parasite earning well-deserved accolades. Nevertheless, the costume designs in horror films merit greater acknowledgment. Designers must not only cultivate realistic looks befitting the story, but they also need to devise concepts that can genuinely terrify viewers.