In the previous season, Han Chong’s petal-domed earrings were so popular that he transformed them into buttons on a red-and-turquoise bouclé jacket for the fall collection. This jacket is the kind of item a fashion editor might discover in a resale shop and pair with a band tee and micro-shorts for a night out. There is a growing trend of styling what was once considered precious or conventional with a touch of irreverence. This is evident from the Chanel pumps seen peeking out from under ripped Levi’s during fashion month’s front rows. Self-Portrait’s fall 2026 collection capitalized on this tension, featuring pelt-lined bombers with denim minis, twinsets with zip-front vinyl pencil skirts, and double-breasted blazers paired with twist-seam cargo pants.
“It’s a reaction to the younger generation’s idea of dressing up,” Chong explained. “Where everything can be mixed, matched, and worn against type.” With more than 50% of Self-Portrait’s revenue now coming from direct-to-consumer channels, Chong’s team can monitor these shifts in real time. While the focus used to be on embellished dresses, the past year has seen a rise in demand for essential basics. This includes black stirrup leggings, navy capri pants, charcoal three-quarter-zip sweaters, and funnel-neck leather jackets, which have become wardrobe staples.
Chong stated, “I try to get as close as possible to what she wants to wear, using the data we have. We review our trade reports weekly and react quickly to what our customer is asking for.” The driving force behind this demand? “Comfort,” he said, “but it still needs to feel sexy—especially going into winter.” The collection features a relaxed vibe both in spirit and materials, with items like a taffeta bubble top paired with linen shorts, a ruched long-sleeve top with silk pants, and a fringed silk blouse over an A-line leather skirt.
Despite Chong’s focus on ease, a significant portion of the collection is dedicated to striking eveningwear. This includes gowns with power shoulders in cherry-red and emerald jersey, asymmetrically draped tops and mini skirts adorned with horizontal diamanté, and neon-green satin shifts featuring ankle-length trains. Additionally, long-sleeved pointelle dresses hang from thick crystal collars, ivory bridal columns with appliqué and sequins are trimmed with feathery blooms, and a black lace corset dress with a boudoir feel is completed with a pleated taffeta maxi skirt. Chong remarked, “Compared to what I used to do, it’s much more pared back. It’s about putting in almost minimal effort and still looking put together,” emphasizing that a dress, no matter how ornate, should require nothing more than slipping it on. “Clothes should be as easy as possible.”
