Jonathan Simkhai: A Closer Look at His Fall Collection

This season, designer Jonathan Simkhai decided to forgo a traditional fashion show and instead opted for a stunning lookbook shoot that featured some of his closest friends and rising stars in the industry. Among those modeling his latest designs were actor Naomi Watts and her daughter Kai Schreiber, musician Malcolm McRae, and models Awar Odhiang and Betsy Gaghan. “I wanted to emphasize the sense of community,” explained Simkhai. This theme of unity extended to his new collection, where he focused on creating sharp outerwear and separates with fresh textural updates.

Known for his preference for a more neutral color palette, Simkhai stayed true to form for his fall collection. Using shades of white, black, brown, and deep plum, he revamped his coats, dresses, and tops with fabrics that were not only visually appealing but also intriguing to the touch. For instance, his zebra-printed coat was crafted from brown and black calf hair, while a cowl neck top for women and a zip-up jacket for men featured black jacquard fabric that resembled feathers thanks to intricate cutting and fringing techniques. “I aimed to create looks that were structured yet lightweight,” remarked Simkhai.

Leather pieces also made a statement in his collection, with a draped top that was artfully folded and gathered at the front for a more architectural look. Simkhai also introduced a standout straight-leg pant for men that struck the perfect balance between slim and baggy, steering clear of the overly skinny fit that can be challenging to pull off. The tailoring of each piece felt just right—not too outlandish, but still intriguing. Building on a dress he designed for Kerry Washington for the Met Gala last year, Simkhai unveiled a tuxedo dress with a scooped neckline that seemed to go on forever, offering a subtle yet impactful update. Similarly, his black plissé quarter-sleeve dress with a shoulder cape exuded elegance, though the bejeweled neckline felt more like an option than a necessity.

Throughout Simkhai’s collection, subtle updates were woven into each piece, adding a touch of sophistication. Higher jacket necklines and reversible shearling-leather chore coats were just some of the details that set his designs apart. While his collection may not have reinvented the wheel, the quietly cool and contemporary pieces were undeniably wearable, appealing to a wide range of tastes. Simkhai’s ability to create pieces that are both stylish and accessible is truly a triumph.