Every year, from January to March, the fashion world is abuzz with a series of shows. The season kicks off with menswear and couture in Milan and Paris, after which New York hosts the initial round of womenswear shows, marking the start of a global fashion circuit. A brief pause occurs for spring break and the Met Gala, but soon enough, top editors, influencers, and celebrities are on the move again. They travel to various global destinations for resort collections, a niche season that showcases playful interpretations of classic house designs.
But what exactly is a resort collection, often referred to as a cruise collection, beyond its appeal for Instagram? This is a question that has lingered over time, with The New York Times contemplating this “most mysteriously labeled of all fashion seasons” as far back as 1989.
The origins of this tradition trace back to the 20th century when affluent, primarily European clients expanded their wardrobes with season-specific pieces, dubbed “beach pajamas,” before setting sail on post-Christmas ocean voyages. Coco Chanel tapped into this market early, offering jersey sportswear and establishing her first boutiques in Deauville and Biarritz. Notably, the brand is set to return to Biarritz for its resort 2027 show tomorrow, with coverage available here.
As leisure travel became more attainable in the latter part of the 20th century, the scope for seasonal fashion expanded. The global attraction to stylish vacations provided an ideal opportunity for designers to market “off-season” collections, effectively bridging the gap between fall and summer offerings.
