After his successful debut show at Pitti this afternoon, Soshi Otsuki took a moment to relax and reflect, smoking a Hi-Lite cigarette. The Tokyo designer, fresh off a model casting in Milan, arrived in Florence that morning and managed to catch a few hours of sleep on the bus. Despite his bleary-eyed appearance, Otsuki was pleased with how the show had gone. “It seems like it was well received, so I’m relieved,” he shared.

Following his recent LVMH Prize win, Otsuki’s first international show carried high expectations, evident in the anticipation felt in the Santa Maria Novella refettorio before the show began. The collection, inspired by Japan’s bubble era salarymen and Armani tailoring, came to life on the runway, showcasing Otsuki’s unique vision.

Looking to distinguish himself further and move away from comparisons to Armani, Otsuki collaborated with stylist Alister Mackie to infuse “a touch of ’80s flair that still felt modern” into his designs. The resources provided by the LVMH win allowed Otsuki to incorporate diverse perspectives and push his creative boundaries.

The collection’s standout features included exaggerated peak lapels, cropped cardigans, and meticulously crafted trousers with intricate details. Otsuki experimented with color and texture, introducing bold hues and rich fabrics to redefine traditional tailoring. The result was a fresh and innovative take on classic menswear.

Collaborations with brands like Proleta Re Art, Asics, and Camisas Monolo added depth to Otsuki’s collection, showcasing his commitment to expanding his brand’s reach and establishing a lasting legacy in the fashion industry.

The audience’s response was overwhelmingly positive, with attendees praising Otsuki’s talent and unique perspective. As cameras flashed and compliments poured in, Otsuki remained composed, taking in the adulation with his signature calm demeanor.