The Evolution of Black Dandyism: A Journey Through Time
The upcoming exhibition will explore the 12 characteristics of Black dandyism, inspired by a 1934 essay by Zora Neale Hurston titled “The Characteristics of Negro Expression.” This organizational principle will serve as the framework for the showcase, highlighting the evolution of the Black dandy through various forms of media including drawings, paintings, photographs, and film excerpts. Each section will delve into different aspects of Black dandyism, showcasing not just garments and accessories, but also the cultural and historical significance behind them.
The first section, titled “Ownership,” will feature an enslaved person’s livery from 19th century Maryland, shedding light on the origins of Black dandyism. Another section, “Jook,” originally identified by Hurston, will explore the connection between music, dancing, and pleasure, featuring iconic Zoot suits from the 1940s. Additionally, the “Cosmopolitanism” section will showcase pieces designed by fashion icons like Pharrell Williams and the late Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton men’s collection.
According to curator Miller, contemporary designers featured in the exhibition draw inspiration from the history and cultural significance of Black dandyism in their design philosophies. Many of these designers also have roots in West Africa or the Caribbean, adding a deeper layer of authenticity to their work. The exhibition aims to highlight issues related to race, power, immigration, slavery, colonization, empowerment, joy, and aesthetics, as seen through the lens of Black dandyism.
Curator Bolton believes that menswear is currently experiencing a renaissance, thanks to the influence of Black designers and stylish individuals who are unafraid to push boundaries with their self-expression. The upcoming Met Gala, with male co-chairs like Pharrell Williams, actor Colman Domingo, and Formula One driver Lewis Hamilton, exemplifies this new wave of creativity in menswear. Bolton credits Black men and Black designers for leading this exciting era in men’s fashion.
Collaborating with influential artists and designers, the exhibition will feature unique elements that will bring the story of Black dandyism to life. Interdisciplinary artist Torkwase Dyson will oversee the conceptual design of the exhibition, while Tanda Francis will create bespoke mannequin heads inspired by African art. Additionally, artist Tyler Mitchell will capture the essence of the exhibition through his photography for the catalogue.
