There’s a beef about beef at the World Cup : NPR

DALLAS — As Argentina supporters gather in Texas for the World Cup, a spirited debate has emerged. It’s not just about the teams or Lionel Messi’s prowess but about which region offers the best steaks and the finest methods for cooking them.

This culinary rivalry pits two major beef-producing regions against each other, both with a deep cultural and dietary connection to steak. Texas leads the U.S. in beef production, with the country ranking second globally after Brazil, while Argentina holds the sixth position.

The burning question is: who excels in steak preparation?

The case for Argentine beef

“Argentine beef is unmatched. Its texture and cut style have no rival,” asserts Carlos Eduardo Barahona, a 64-year-old Argentine chef residing in Texas since 1998.

Barahona, who has worked in restaurants across Argentina, Uruguay, and Texas, claims Argentina reigns supreme from the most affordable to the priciest cuts.

“Even with our cheapest cuts, an Argentine asado is delightful. In the U.S., using top meat like tenderloin can yield varied results, but Argentine beef offers a distinct flavor profile,” he explains.

Argentine cattle typically graze on open pastures, resulting in leaner meat with robust, earthy flavors due to the longer time required to reach market readiness.

The case for Texan beef

In Texas and the U.S., beef is predominantly grain-fed, resulting in more marbling, which makes the meat juicy, tender, and slightly sweeter.

“There is no beef better than U.S. beef, especially from Texas,” states Texas Agriculture Commissioner Sid Miller.

Nevertheless, Miller acknowledges the quality of Argentine beef, crediting Texas for its improvement.

He mentions that Texas established a marketing office over a decade ago to foster connections between Texan cattle raisers and ranchers in South America, particularly Argentina.

“We’ve helped improve their genetics, providing them with high-quality semen, embryos, and breeding stock,” he notes.

Miller congratulates Argentine farmers on enhancing their cattle quality, emphasizing the influence of American genetics.

The verdict is in the eye of the beefholder

Argentine fan Gonzalo Herrera, shopping for meat at a Walmart in Arlington, Texas, after witnessing Messi’s two goals against Austria, appears unfazed by the beef debate.

“Honestly, I don’t notice a significant difference,” Herrera remarks, as he adds T-bone steaks to his cart.

“The real challenge is identifying the right cuts that match what we have in Argentina,” he says, while noting the $45 price tag.

“Prices are higher here,” adds Herrera.

The discussion about beef often boils down to personal preferences regarding recipes, cut styles, and thickness. Taste preferences vary with seasoning, searing methods, smoking, and the use of butter, pepper, or sauces.

At Corrientes 348 Argentinian Steakhouse in Dallas, steaks are seasoned with just salt and mesquite charcoal, according to assistant manager Emmanuel Tobon.

“There’s a noticeable difference. Texans use a lot of pepper, butter, and some barbecue sauce,” Tobon explains. “(Argentines) prefer to highlight the steak’s flavor with just salt.”

With at least one more match scheduled in Dallas for Argentina, fans have been flocking to the restaurant for a taste of home during the World Cup.

“They’ve embraced Texas culture,” Tobon says, adding, “It’s been a pleasure to make them feel at home.”

Argentines take immense pride in their steak traditions, passed down through generations, with the grill master’s role considered “sacred” at family gatherings, Tobon notes.

Fernando Garcia Morillo, originally from Buenos Aires and now living near Miami, appreciates beef from both countries but misses the traditions of Argentina when ordering steak in the U.S.

“I order it with just salt, no pepper, just plain,” Morillo shares, mentioning that sauces are often used.

He dismisses the idea of a rivalry between the U.S. and Argentina over beef.

“If there’s a rivalry, it’s usually with Brazil, our neighbor,” he says. “I love U.S. meat.”