The influence of menswear’s post-punk normcore from the mid-1990s on today’s streetwear is akin to the impact of 1950s Ivy League fashion on the 1960s prep, mod, and rock styles: a foundational point that inspired a multitude of fashion evolutions. The latest Undercover collection, reminiscent of Larry Clark, Jenny Holzer, ’90s skate and grunge with a hint of surf culture, nostalgically revisits an era when generic brands and garments, from Gap and Dickies to stadium jackets and check flannel shirts, were immortalized by the attitudes of Gen-X individuals.
This being an Undercover collection, it featured underlying themes and what a concise press note described as “subtle disruptions,” introduced by Jun Takahashi as enriching glitches. With the designer unavailable for comment, it seems more appropriate to convey the messages printed on the garments themselves rather than speculate on his thoughts.
The phrase “The Honest Liar,” mirrored intriguingly, served as both a collection theme and a title reminiscent of a film. Some pieces, like a raw-edged military field jacket combined with a PT hoodie, were gently transformed into hybrids. The collection also included unconventional pocket placements, free-association doodle graphics, and on several items, a structured motif that paired the word “Memory” with intricate illustrations. These elements sometimes felt like intimate diary entries, sharing a personal yet elusive narrative.
Devotees of Undercover will recognize that these unique elements, or “undercoverisms,” are central to the brand’s identity. Jun Takahashi, in both his womenswear and menswear, excels at infusing traditional clothing archetypes with a dynamic psychological energy. Aside from these distinct touches, the collection featured relaxed, wearable, and often understated pieces: overshirts, coach jackets, sweatshirts, cargo pants, loose shorts, check shirts, striped button-downs, and wide-legged trousers, paired with scribbled-on sneakers resembling Vans and slogan socks. Overall, it was a nostalgic homage, enriched by mysterious decorative details that added depth.
