OpéraSport, a popular sportswear brand, made a strategic move in November 2025 to open a warehouse in the United States. This decision was aimed at mitigating the impact of tariffs and overcoming wholesale challenges. According to Stelter, a representative of OpéraSport, establishing a warehouse in the States has proven beneficial in various ways. It has significantly reduced last-mile shipping costs, shortened delivery times, and lowered the risk of failed deliveries and returns. As a result, conversion rates have improved, leading to higher customer satisfaction, which ultimately offsets the upfront tariff costs.
Moreover, having inventory closer to the customer base in the US market has enabled OpéraSport to scale more efficiently. Stelter emphasizes that this move has facilitated the support of wholesale and direct-to-consumer (DTC) growth, allowing the brand to operate with more predictable logistics and pricing. For OpéraSport, this warehouse investment is seen as a strategic move rather than just a cost-saving measure.
The current trade setup in the US presents challenges for brands that are not well-established. Tina Raasteen, co-CEO of Copenhagen womenswear label Herskind, acknowledges the difficulties of being profitable in the US market. Despite having around 10 US stockists, Herskind primarily conducts business in Europe. Raasteen emphasizes the need for brands to carefully select accounts they can afford to work with, as the wholesale model often places a significant risk on brands, which many cannot sustain.
In contrast, some smaller Copenhagen labels have managed to avoid tariff setbacks and unfulfilled payments by steering clear of major US retail partners. Rising star Nicklas Skovgaard, a LVMH Prize finalist, shared his experience of limited exposure to major US retailers, allowing his brand to remain relatively unaffected by the challenges faced by others. Skovgaard sells his eponymous label on platforms like Ssense and in US boutiques such as Maimoun, Café Forgot, and Mr. Larkin.
The recent bankruptcy filing of Ssense raised concerns within the wholesale market, prompting Skovgaard to reflect on strategies for diversification, growth pacing, and selecting partners aligned with the brand’s long-term vision. Despite the uncertainties in the market, Copenhagen brands like Forza Collective remain optimistic about the US market’s potential with the right positioning. Ariana Milton, who leads commercial strategy for Forza Collective, emphasizes the importance of targeting stable economies and maintaining a small footprint in the US while focusing primarily on direct-to-consumer sales.
Overall, the Copenhagen fashion scene continues to navigate the complexities of the global market, adapting to challenges and opportunities as they arise. With strategic investments and a focus on long-term growth, brands like OpéraSport and Herskind are finding ways to thrive in an ever-changing retail landscape.
