What’s It Like to Debut at Chanel? Four Months in the Life of Matthieu Blazy

Photographs by Annie Leibovitz. Fashion captures by Rafael Pavarotti.

Fashion thrives on transformation, yet some shifts transcend mere seasons. Last year, when Chanel announced the absence of a creative director, industry insiders watched with bated breath. For nearly four decades, Karl Lagerfeld’s singular vision shaped the brand. Following his passing in 2019, his close ally Virginie Viard preserved his aesthetic. With Viard’s departure last year, Chanel faced an uncertain future. Matthieu Blazy, a relatively young designer who made a name for himself with innovative leather designs at Bottega Veneta, emerged as an unconventional successor. When he was appointed artistic director last December, he not only had to find his footing beneath Lagerfeld’s enduring legacy but also had to demonstrate his own creative direction at his October reveal.

As the evening of the inaugural show arrives, the backstage area of the Grand Palais—a stunning Beaux Arts structure by the Seine—buzzes with energy. Light gray felt lines the floor, designated for the runway. Models bustle in robes and hair accessories. Forty minutes before the 8 p.m. showtime, Blazy shows up, looking anxious and drawn. “Honestly, I’m a bit all over the place. I’m going to have a cigarette,” he confides before hurriedly stepping away.

Blazy transitioned to Bottega after two decades of working as a discreet deputy, once hailed as a secret weapon and now recognized openly. At Raf Simons, where he first started, he was celebrated for infusing intricate layers into the designs; at Maison Margiela, he created the iconic crystal-embellished masks that became synonymous with the brand. His tenure at Bottega showcased his sophisticated understanding of craftsmanship, seamlessly merging contrasting concepts into relatable creations. “It’s strength meets softness, structure meets fluidity,” describes Ayo Edebiri, who is attending as a Chanel ambassador. “But importantly, he understands every woman’s perspective. I can feel like myself in a stunning dress, whether it’s alluring or modest.” Longtime Chanel advocate Nicole Kidman offers, “From the moment I met Matthieu, his heartfelt approach to everything truly impressed me.”

On four screens positioned to one side, viewers can catch glimpses from outside: the hall’s interior, dual views of red-carpet arrivals, and drone footage capturing throngs of spectators eagerly anticipating Blazy’s appearance. As the models assume their places, audio technicians whisper through headsets. Once he finally arrives, Blazy makes a swift circuit, greeting colleagues with a warm smile before retreating, overwhelmed. He admits to being anxious about everything and nothing simultaneously. “My mom likens it to the stress of sending your kids off on the first day of school—you know they’ll be fine, but still,” he says, wrapping his arms around himself as he locks eyes with the awaiting models. He oscillates between the screens and models, then states, a hint of cautious reassurance in his voice, “It feels like the big leap.”

Weeks earlier, on a warm Wednesday in July, I met Blazy on the steps of the Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés, the oldest church in Paris and a site once surrounded by green fields. Now, it stands as a monument to endurance—showing how a seemingly minor detail, given enough time, can become integral to its environment, its very essence.

For Blazy, this is home. “I live nearby,” he mentions as he rises from his seated position on the church steps to greet me. “My father owned a gallery close by, so I spent much of my childhood here.” He has a medium build, sporting his signature unbranded white T-shirt, with a natural-colored sweater draped over his shoulders and casually worn faded blue jeans topped off with exquisite black crinkled lambskin loafers of his own creation. During my first encounter with him at Bottega years ago, he exuded a youthful sense of celebratory elegance in refined designs. At one of his early public appearances, delivering a humble address at a lavish Italian banquet, he appeared somewhat like a king wearing an oversized crown upon his 37-year-old head.

While just three years have passed since that moment, at 41, now donning the Chanel crown, Blazy appears more grounded and seasoned. His light brown hair, styled simply, shows hints of gray. His face presents a stronger adult visage, marked by a determined jaw and an alert gaze. Yet, he still embodies the spirit of a lifelong learner, described to me as attentive, humble, and eager to collaborate.

“He’s an exceptional selection for Chanel, both in personality and how that informs his designs,” remarks Andrew Bolton, curator of The Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute, known for his extensive retrospective on Lagerfeld’s work two years ago. “His design approach is very inclusive and egalitarian, which will greatly benefit Chanel. Karl’s creations exuded a sense of the sublime achievable through luxury. Matthieu’s version of sublime is subtler. He focuses on the aesthetics of daily life.”

In the current market, the brand, like many giants in the luxury sector, conducts a significant portion of its business within Asia and the Middle East. However, it has maintained an unusually cautious approach, avoiding the temptation of market trends. Chanel has never ventured into men’s or children’s collections, and despite the industry’s shift toward online retail, it has opted to prioritize boutique experiences. “Chanel is about maintaining laser focus—doing everything isn’t synonymous with being the best,” explains Pavlovsky. This may indeed hold true, as Chanel, although affected by the same market downturn plaguing other brands—this decline, Pavlovsky insists, was anticipated after previous rapid growth—has faced a softer dip than many.

The unique runway surface was crafted by Stefano, Blazy’s partner. Throughout the summer, they worked together refining colors and designs. It’s worth noting that the exquisite runway on which all guests now walk—the very stage that models will grace—was handcrafted by two people in love, further adding a depth of intimacy to the show.