The latest Tao show, unmistakably centered around circles, took place at the Comme des Garçons Aoyama headquarters, a traditional venue for Tao Kurihara’s label. The collection opened with oversized gingham circles in soft pink and blue, creating voluminous tops and skirts. Circular elements were a recurring theme throughout the collection, seen in rounded hems, wavy back yokes on red and black tailored pieces, vibrant clown-colored dresses, and skirts beneath circular shearling tops.
This emphasis on circular designs was inspired by the abstract, pastel-hued paintings of Dutch artist Ruth van Beek, known for her cutout shapes. As the show notes succinctly stated, “I incorporated her signature motif—the circle—into garment patterns, using it as a foundation to explore new forms in clothing.” The collection, aptly titled “Abstract Shape,” featured diverse textures, including large polka dot prints with internal checked patterns. These designs created a geometric contrast within the oval silhouettes, complemented by candy floss hairstyles and hats resembling flower petals.
The significance of the circle extends beyond fashion, symbolizing concepts like eternity, life’s cyclical nature, halos, and eggs. In family trees, circles represent females, and Van Beek has explained her affinity for circular and oval shapes, noting they “feel very human.” Whether Kurihara contemplated these meanings or simply focused on innovative pattern making remains open to interpretation.
Regardless, the collection was notably vibrant and playful, even by Tao’s standards. A soundtrack transitioning from folksy bells to synth-infused trombones added to the lively atmosphere. Though Kurihara might be somewhat overshadowed within the larger Comme structure, her exceptional talent shines through unmistakably.
