Brioni Enters a New Chapter with Tommaso Angeli at the Helm

Following the departure of designer Norbert Stumpfl last December after a stint spanning almost 10 percent of the house’s 80-year history, Brioni is embarking on a new phase under the leadership of Tommaso Angeli. Instead of a traditional creative director, this season’s collection was presented by Angeli, who was promoted to chief product officer shortly before Stumpfl’s exit. Joining him is Flavio Cerbone, who brings over a decade of experience from Prada Group to the Kering-operated menswear house. The duo made it clear that Brioni will not be seeking a new design-specialist creative lead to succeed Stumpfl.

“We want to talk about real elegance, something linked to Roman style, Roman nonchalance, sprezzatura, imperfection,” said Angeli. The collection showcased a range of impeccably styled pieces, including a long-haired shearling version of the iconic Vagabond overshirt and a stunning horsehair tailored jacket. The attention to detail and craftsmanship were evident in every piece, with Brioni artisans dedicating significant time to the intricate work involved in creating each garment.

Brioni has a long-standing tradition of excellence, with hundreds of tailoring specialists working in its Penne ateliers. The brand also operates a school to train the next generation of tailors, ensuring a continuous pipeline of skilled artisans for both Brioni and other tailoring businesses in Italy. The expertise and meticulous craftsmanship that Brioni is known for were on full display in this latest collection.

The presentation also highlighted Brioni’s history of showcasing its Roman-inspired tailoring and “sportswear” through client-facing trunk shows dating back to the 1950s. One of Brioni’s most groundbreaking moments was staging what is believed to be the first-ever menswear fashion show in Florence in 1952. This innovative move captured the attention of American buyers, sparking a global demand for Roman tailoring and leading to the establishment of the renowned Penne ateliers.

As Brioni looks to the future, the challenge for Angeli and Cerbone is to reignite the passion for the brand by creating a fresh and modern interpretation of its rich heritage. With a focus on quality craftsmanship, timeless elegance, and a nod to its Roman roots, Brioni is poised to continue its legacy as a leader in luxury menswear.