This collection from Jacques Wei was crafted in just 20 days. During a re-see held in his show venue located in a lavish salon atop a boutique hotel in HuangPu—Wei stands out as one of the two prominent designers in Shanghai showcasing independently from Shanghai Fashion Week—the designer revealed two key drivers behind the breakneck pace.
Firstly, Jacques Wei is the newly minted collaborator for H&M. His upcoming collection, set to launch early next year across the Asia-Pacific region in celebration of the Chinese New Year, features around 30 pieces that align with his signature luxurious style at more attainable prices, including golden equine-shaped brooches celebrating the year of the horse. Secondly, most of his time was dedicated to fabric development for this line. He emphasized that materials were central to this collection, effectively distinguishing his personal brand from his offerings for the fashion retailer.
Wei designs intuitively, influenced by his current mood, and he is undeniably a master of creating compelling vibes. This season, he drew inspiration from the vibrant 1980s, infusing his work with the era’s colors, textures, and silhouettes. “It was such a joyful time,” he remarked, reflecting on the aesthetics of that decade. “I think we all need a bit of that joy in our lives, especially me,” he added.
True to his vision, he embraced the opulent styles characteristic of that decade. Wei employed hammered silk brocades in rich midnight shades and gold, the former adorned with bead and sequin clusters resembling flowers, while the latter showcased bugle beads and gleaming paillettes. He sculpted these materials into mini skirts and collarless jackets with bold shoulders, which were also featured on jersey tops that hugged the neck yet left the back open: “To bring it into the present,” he stated, “it’s sexier and less concealing.”
Wei discovered jersey to be quite accommodating—a noteworthy finding for a designer traditionally working with silks and georgettes, the types of fabrics that often highlight every imperfection. He fashioned it into flowing minis, playful tops, and a stunningly flattering column gown, all infused with a delightful joie de vivre. This approach offered a refreshing counterpoint to the plethora of neutral palettes dominating the Shanghai runways—and beyond—this season. While the current economic climate has muted fashion choices into a state of monotony, Jacques Wei’s collection radiates individuality and exuberance. It was a delight to witness his vibrant hues and prints amidst a sea of subdued ivory silks and tailored blacks.
