Zane Li Showcases Menswear Collection in Paris
Zane Li has decided to showcase his latest menswear collection in Paris, ahead of his upcoming women’s show in New York next month. The designer, who operates out of a sleek showroom in the Marais district, drew inspiration for this season’s collection from his deep-rooted fascination with cars. However, it wasn’t the engineering or design of cars that captivated him, but rather the contemplative relationship he had with them while traveling between studios and factories in China.
Li shared that he often found himself pondering the passing of life while seated in a car, as well as the dual nature of cars being both exhilarating (like in a race) and dangerous (as depicted in David Cronenberg’s film “Crash”). While the collection didn’t directly reference the auto-erotica seen in the movie, Li explained how these musings culminated in the layered looks that defined each ensemble.
“I would sit in cars and feel the emotions and sensibilities of things happening inside this steel frame. The combination of technology and desire became a central theme in my designs, as I aimed to create a second layer of clothing beyond mere protection,” Li elaborated.
His exploration led him to vintage sport uniforms, particularly a two-tone F1 jacket with a high collar that inspired various iterations in the collection. The designs evolved from performance-focused pieces to more streamlined styles, including a chic cocoon silhouette and a versatile blouson.
In addition to his keen eye for colors, Li skillfully applied hues throughout the collection, such as a striking turquoise placket on a black coat and bold blocks of green and red reminiscent of an Ellsworth Kelly canvas. “Color is a universal language. It doesn’t require explanation; it speaks visually,” he noted.
With turtlenecks, polos, and impeccably tailored pieces that can be easily mixed and matched, Li’s brand, LII, is poised to represent the new generation in American sportswear. He acknowledged the influence of ’90s fashion icons like Tommy Hilfiger, Helmut Lang, and Calvin Klein, building upon their established codes with confidence and commitment.
Looking ahead, Li expressed aspirations for a more formal presentation in Paris, hinting that this dream may not be too far off. As he continues to push boundaries and redefine modern sportswear, Li’s presence in the fashion scene is sure to make a lasting impact.
