Attendees of William Fan’s fashion shows are well aware that he strives to craft immersive worlds rather than mere collections. His spring 2027 collection, titled “Exchange,” which debuted at Berlin Fashion Week, took this concept almost literally. Within a space where columns were wrapped in foil and adorned with numerous hanging objects, the event resembled a vertically arranged flea market. It raised the question: was it a runway, an archive, a presentation, or a collection?
Fan explained that “Exchange” was inspired by movement, particularly travel. The designer recounted an eight-week journey spanning Marrakech, Tokyo, Shanghai, and Hong Kong, during which he adopted what he termed a “collector’s mindset.” Rather than merely passing through these places, he gathered elements from them—objects, impressions, images, and textures.
This tension between movement and stillness was reflected in the clothing. Before the show, Fan hinted that the theme would be “bouncy.” Pleating emerged as the key stylistic feature of the season, evolving from a decorative detail to a fundamental design principle. The garments responded to movement, shedding rigidity in favor of lightness and fluidity. Here, elegance was defined by ease rather than control. The silhouettes mirrored this rhythm, with low-slung waists, elongated proportions, and layered elements drawing the eye downward. Pants were presented in various lengths and layered atop each other.
Styling was the standout feature of this and many of Fan’s collections. Rather than designing complete looks, Fan focused on individual pieces, perpetuating cuts and designs across seasons. Cargo pants, reimagined in diverse fabrics, formed the collection’s foundation. Accents like belts, leather trims on pant cuffs, visible boxer brief waistbands, and small metallic tassel pendants added a touch of novelty, akin to souvenirs. Fan remarked, “The journey is part of the destination.”
