Henry Zankov is not one to be labeled as dark academia or eccentric like your zany aunt. Instead, he is delving into the in-between, where the unconventional meets the intriguing. “The more wrong it feels, the better,” the designer remarked, emphasizing the allure of stepping outside the norm. A photo of Leigh Bowery on the moodboard behind him only added to the mystique.

This season, Zankov set out to challenge himself beyond his established foundations in knitwear and paillettes. A collaboration with The Real Real further solidified his commitment to longevity in fashion. In addition to providing shoes for the show, The Real Real also brought in some of their consignors through a raffle, adding a unique touch to the event.

The color palette took a vampy turn, with a mix of violet knit swim caps, autumnal brushed alpaca knits, and blue striped shirts with draped velvet stripes. The collection exuded a Kim Gordon meets coastal vibe, with psychedelic ski prints adding a touch of whimsy. Presley Oldham’s tubular shapes and fringed beads added an extra layer of sophistication to the runway.

Backstage, Zankov spoke of his muse embracing her insecurities, a sentiment that resonates with many. The organza skirt turned inside out in the opening look showcased a daring move for Zankov, but it seamlessly complemented the sculptural coats that followed.

Despite any initial nerves, Zankov’s expanding design language continued to impress. He has carefully crafted his signature materiality before venturing into new territories, ensuring that his designs exude confidence and elegance. It’s a refreshing twist on good taste, adding a hint of excitement to the fashion scene.